Those mountains...and the sky!! Smeared with every texture cloud. Where the blue shows itself behind tears in the clouds, it glows iradescant. We hoped she'd clear up, and sure enough, we get our first sight of the water and the sun blasts them out and makes room for a surprise perfect beach day. Got to the pch and kept heading North. Zuma didn't have much to offer...crumbly and blown out.
We met up with Joey's new friend Josh in the Trancas supermarket lot, and followed him to pick up his board at a ranch up in the hills. We get there and it's Daryl Hannah's place. Badass red El Camino, and a strangely familiar yellow firebird parked in the lot. When I played the Carson Daly show, she was the celebrity guest. Met her briefly today and mentioned that to her, but she didn't remember...real nice, though. Josh shows us around the simple wood structure he built with his friend on the property that is now their recording studio. Roosters crowed, and the green hills swallowed us. This is L.A.!? It's a different world from my little place in the nitty gritty. We took a walk through some of the natural beauty and hiked up to a little series of waterfalls before we jumped back in the car and headed down to the water.
First spot we get to, Leo Carillo is looking great. Waist to chest high, peeling, and 1 guy in the water. I've always wanted to surf there, but never wanted to battle the constant and notoriously surly crowd. It's a weird wave: the small take off spot is right next to a big rock. Once you navigate through the treacherous rocks, and if you can connect the sections, you can ride that thing for a very long time...I must've cruised more than 100 yards on a few of them. There really is no feeling like it.
Tired from paddling and beat up by the sun, we grabbed a burger and a 24 oz beer at Neptunes net and shot the shit for a while. Headed back South into traffic and the belly of beast that I call home to resume my hustle.
Sure would like a place in those hills one day.